Immersion

After 7 weeks in China, I’m now back in the UK. I arrived home on Monday afternoon, after a long journey via Zurich and Manchester.

Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island / 南丫島索罟灣
Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island / 南丫島索罟灣

I spent 6 weeks staying with friends in Zhaoqing (肇庆) in Guangdong Province in the south of China, then spent a week in Hong Kong. I visited places I’d been to before in Hong Kong, and some ones that were new to me, and generally had a good time. Hong Kong felt very busy and crowded, after the relatively relaxed Zhaoqing. I was last there in 1998, and it has changed quite a bit. There seems to be a lot more of everything – people, traffic, buildings, roads, railways, etc, but I did find some things that were familiar, like the Star Ferries and the trams.

Beilingshan Forest Park / 北岭山森林公园
Beilingshan Forest Park, Zhaoqing / 肇庆北岭山森林公园

While in Zhaoqing, I explored the local area and saw some beautiful places, but didn’t visit any other parts of China.

Few of the local people in Zhaoqing speak English, so I had use Mandarin or Cantonese, and interpret for one of my friends, who doesn’t speak much Chinese at all. This helped me to improve both languages. However, most of my interactions with locals were short and about everyday topics, such as buying things, ordering food in restaurants, or asking directions. I did have longer conversations about various topics with some people.

Being immersed in a language, as I was, doesn’t necessarily mean that all aspects of your ability in that language will improve. You need to make an effort to speak to people about all sorts of things, to read the language as much as you can, to watch TV and films in the language, and to listen to radio, podcasts, audiobooks or other material. It also helps to make some local friends who you speak to regularly, and/or find a language exchange partner or tutor.

My Mandarin is maybe at an A2/B1 level, and my Cantonese is at an A1 level at the most. I can have long conversations about various things in Mandarin, and short ones about basic things in Cantonese. Generally, people understand me and some said that it was unusual to meet a Westerner who speaks Chinese well. When reading Chinese texts, there are always characters that I’ve forgotten or don’t know yet, but I can usually get a good idea of what the texts mean.

While I was in Hong Kong, I tried to speak Cantonese with people as much as possible, unless they preferred Mandarin or English. I was able to communicate at a basic level and understand at least some of what I heard.




Outside Aliens

As a non-Chinese person in China, a word you’ll hear quite a bit is 外国人 (wài​guó​rén), which means foreigner, foreign national or alien. Some people like pointing out any foreigners they see, and they might say or shout 外国人 at them, assuming they won’t understand.

Me in front of the Old City Wall in Zhaoqing / 我在肇庆古城墙前
Me in front of the Old City Wall in Zhaoqing / 我在肇庆古城墙前

外国人 [外國人] (wài​guó​rén) could be translated literally as “outside country person” or “foreign nation person”. A slang version is 歪果仁 (wāi​guǒ​rén) which literally means something like “slanted fruit benevolence” or “askew results humaneness” [source].

When Chinese people look at me and say 外国人, I might reply by saying I’m not a 外国人 but rather a 外星人 (wài​xīng​rén), which means space alien or extraterrestrial. This often gets a smile or laugh. Or I might point that to me they are the 外国人.

When I worked in Taiwan, I was officially an alien as I had an Alien Registration Card, which I found quite amusing.

外国人 is a formal and polite to refer to a non-Chinese national, and seems to be used particularly to refer to people who don’t look Chinese or Asian. Other ways to do so include:

  • 老外 (lǎowài / lou5 ngoi6) – “old foreign” – this is an informal, slang term for foreigners, particularly foreigners of non-East Asian ethnicities, and is used throughout China in Mandarin and Cantonese. It is seen as offensive or rude by some [source]. It can also mean a layman or amateur, and in Cantonese it can refer to a father-in-law, specifically a wife’s father [source].
  • 鬼佬 (gwai2 lou2) – “ghost man”, “devil person” – used in Cantonese and Eastern Min to refer to a foreigner, particularly a white Westerner. It is considered derogatory [source].
  • 洋人 (yángrén) – “ocean / foreign person” – refers to a foreigner, especially a westerner or Caucasian. Used in some varieties of Mandarin, Gan, Hakka, Jin, Wu and Xiang [source]
  • 外宾 [外賓] (wàibīn) – “foreign guest” [source].
  • 国际友人 [國際友人] (guójì yǒurén) – “international friend”.
  • 外国朋友 [外國朋友] (wàiguó péng​you) – “foreign friend”.

In China, people who were not born in the area they live are known as 外地人 (wài​dì​rén – stranger, outsider, non-local, out-of-towner) by local people. I met quite a few such people in Zhaoqing [source].

In the few days I’ve been in Hong Kong, I’ve seen more 外國人 than I did in 6 weeks in Zhaoqing. There, it’s rare to spot a 外国人 in the wild. Here, they’re more common. Today, for example, I heard 外國人 speaking English, French, German, Dutch, Russian and other languages I didn’t recognise. There were quite a few at Victoria Peak, which I visited today.

Victoria Peak / 太平山
A view from Victoria Peak (太平山), Hong Kong

In Japanese, 外国人 (gaikokujin) is used to refer to a foreigner, an alien, a foreign national or a person who is not Japanese [source].

The informal version, 外人 (gaijin), is used specifically for foreigners of European ancestry, and used to mean any outsider, or an estranged or unfamiliar person. After Japan opened up to the outside world in the 1850s, 外人 started to be used to refer to foreigners, especially foreigners in Japan. It is considered negative and pejorative by some these days [source]. It can also refer to ethnically Japanese people who have grown up outside Japan and are not Japanese citizens [source].

Language skills in just 10 minutes a day with Ling




China Adventures

This week I’ve mainly been in China, and have had little time to add new material to Omniglot. Normal service should resume when I return to the UK. I’m planning to do so towards the end of January 2026, but we’ll see.

A nearby street leading to Zhaoqing University
A nearby street leading to Zhaoqing University

It was quite an epic journey to get here. I left Bangor at ridiculous o’clock far too early on Tuesday morning, and got a lift to Manchester airport with friends. Then I flew to Beijing on Hainan Airlines (海南航空) with one of those friends. The flight took 10 hours and went smoothly, though I wasn’t able to sleep much, so was very tired when we arrived in Beijing. After filling in some pointless forms, going through immigration and collecting our bags, we checked in for our flight to Guangzhou, which took about 3 hours. Then we took a rather rickety old bus to Zhaoqing, which took another 2 hours, and a taxi to where we’re staying. The whole journey took just under 24 hours door-to-door.

The building I'm staying in and the view from my window
The building I’m staying in and the view from my window

I’m staying with M, the friend I travelled with, his Chinese wife YR, their two daughters (my goddaughters), Mia (5) and Isla (4), and YR’s mother. They’re renting a large, comfortable apartment in a new gated complex near Zhaoqing University (肇庆学院), where YR works as a teacher trainer. It’s quite a lively area full of students with plenty of places to eat and other shops, and the university campus has some quite picturesque parts, particularly the lake. It kind of reminds me of parts of Taipei, and even smells quite similar.

The lake on the campus of Zhaoqing University
The lake on the campus of Zhaoqing University

There’s a much bigger lake near the centre of Zhaoqing which I saw on the way here. It’s called 星湖 (xīnghú) or Star Lake. I’ll go to explore the area soon. We were going to go last night, but got distracted with eating and other things.

Zhaoqing (肇庆 [肇慶] – zhàoqìng / siu6-hing2 in Cantonese) was established during the Qin Dynasty in the 1st century BC. It was originally known as Sihui (西会 [xīhuì]), and has also been known as Gaoyao (高要 [gāoyào]) and Duanzhou (端州 [duānzhōu]). Gaoyao and Duanzhou are now districts of Zhaoqing, and Sihui is a separate city. It became Zhaoqing in 1118 AD. It’s a port on the Xi River (西江) in Guangdong Province (广东省) about 50 miles / 80 km west of Guangzhou (广州).

The first and only other time I visited Mainland China was in 1991, when I spent nearly 2 months travelling around the south of the country. It has changed quite a bit since. Back then, travelling in China was an interesting experience, but not always a particularly comfortable one. The roads were full of bicycles, motorbikes, mopeds, buses, trucks, tractors, and even horses and donkeys, but very few private cars. The buildings were mostly grey, unadorned concrete, the air wasn’t particularly clean, except in rural areas, and foreign tourists were a novelty.

Me in Yangshuo (阳朔) in 1991
Me in Yangshuo (阳朔) in 1991

There were two currencies back in the 1990s: RMB (人民币 [rénmínbì]) for locals, and Foreign Exchange Certificates (外汇券 [wàihuìquàn]) for foreign tourists. There were restrictions on where you could visit, where you could stay and how you could travel, both for locals and tourists. FECs were used for certain hotels, flights, train tickets, and so on, and the locals were keen to exchange their RMB for FECs whenever they could.

Now there are fancy electric cars and scooters everywhere, there are a lot more local people and tourists, the cities are bigger and full of mostly smart, modern tower blocks, although you still see some unadorned concrete around, and they have built a whole network of high speed trains and many new roads. You could say that China is very much a work in progress, as there seems to be endless construction of new buildings, roads, railways, and so on. If you’re looking for a quiet, peaceful place to stay, most Chinese cities are best avoided.

There is only one currency now – RMB, and while cash is used to some extent, most people pay for everything with the WeChat app. It’s like WhatsApp, in that you can use it for messaging and calls, but has various other functions. Apparently shops and street vendors are keen to use WeChat as they get bonuses for doing so. Everybody has a QR code which you scan with your phone, which makes transactions much easier, and saves you having to carry around cash. I set it up before I left the UK, and finally got it working yesterday after getting hold of a local SIM card.

On the planes on the way here, I heard people speaking both Mandarin and Cantonese, and expected to hear Cantonese being spoken here in Zhaoqing. So far though, I’ve only heard a few people speaking Cantonese – most people seem to speak Mandarin as their first language. I’ve spoken plenty of Mandarin so far, but haven’t had any opportunities to speak Cantonese yet.

YR and her mum speak Mandarin and a variety of Mandarin from Guangxi Province where they come from. It sounds similar enough to Mandarin that I can sort of get the gist of what they’re saying. Apparently their dialect / language is known as Guangxi Mandarin or Jia Zhuang (嘉庄), as it is influenced by the Zhuang language [source].

The building I'm staying in and the view from my window Thanks to the Great Firewall of China, many of the sites I normally use are not accessible here, which makes things difficult. So unless I can find ways round this, I plan to spend my time here improving existing content on Omniglot, rather than adding new stuff. I will add some new pages when I have time and it’s possible to do so.

Before comning here, I made some bilingual English and Chinese name cards. They include a QR code which links to my page on Link Tree: https://linktr.ee/omniglot. I just found out that this site is blocked here. Oh well.

Spreading Sweetness

Foods, and the words that describe them, can travel around the world. For example, tea comes from China, and so do words for tea in many languages. Similarly, avocado, chocolate, tamale, tomato come from Mexico (both the words and the foods).

Those words came to Europe from other continents, and I recently discovered some words that travelled from Europe, or Western Asia, to many other parts of the world.

Honey

It started with the Proto-Indo-European word *médʰu (honey, mead), which spread throughout Europe and Asia, and possibly as far as China, Korea, Japan and Vietnam [source].

Descendants of *médʰu include:

  • մեղու [meʁú] = bee in Armenian
  • мед (med) = honey in Bulgarian
  • mõdu [mjøːd] = mead in Estonian
  • Met [meːt] = mead in German
  • μέθη (méthi) = drunkenness in Greek
  • מותק (mótek) = sweetness in Hebrew
  • मॊदुर / مۆدُر (modur) = sweet, tasty, delicious in Kashmiri
  • medus [mædus] = honey, mead in Latvian
  • މީރު [miː.ɾu] = pleasant, sweet, agreeable, savoury in Maldivian
  • medveď [ˈmɛdvɛc] = bear (“honey-eater”) in Slovak
  • mjöd [mjøːd] = mead in Swedish
  • மதுரம் [mɐd̪ʊɾɐm] = sweetness in Tamil
  • medd [meːð] = mead, and meddw [ˈmɛðu] = drunk in Welsh

The Irish name Méabh (Maeve) also comes from the same roots, via Middle Irish medb (intoxicating) [source]. For more details of related words in Celtic languages, see this Celtiadur post: Honey Wine

It also reached China, where it became mīt (honey) in Tocharian B, and was possibly borrowed into Old Chinese as *mit (honey), which became (mì – honey) in Mandarin, (mat6 [mɐt˨] – bee, honeybee) in Cantonese, (mitsu – honey, nectar, moasses, syrup) in Japanese, (mil – beeswax) in Korean, and mật (honey, molasses) and mứt (jam) in Vietnamese [source].

Evolution of the Chinese character for honey (蜜)

Evolution of the Chinese character for honey (蜜)

See also: https://hanziyuan.net/#蜜

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